As you have figured out by now, I’m an esthetician who has been trained in brow shaping. My longtime clients know my qualifications, but my readers may not. Since I’ve been getting requests for tutorials and general all-around help with brows, I’m going to make this blog the focus on just that. Brows.
After I completed my esthetics program on the East Coast, I was fortunate to start working right away. I started in the office of a cosmetic surgeon, but I didn’t stay there long. From there I worked for a spa and did all the traditional esthetician duties, such as facials and waxing. It was while working at that spa, however, that I qualified to get supplemental training from an international institute that specializes in providing dermal (skin) training courses to the employees of companies who sell their products and services. I reached “Expert” status after being part of the first graduating class from their “Expert” program. But, it wasn’t until I began my ‘Brow Arch Expert’ position with a well-known brow and skincare company within a high-end department store that my esthetics focus became brows. The founder of the company provided additional training and this is when I fell in love with the art of brow shaping. If you recall from reading my biography, I’m happiest when I’m creating. When you’re my brow or makeup client lying down, sitting or standing in front of me, your face becomes my canvas. And I go to work!
My East Coast ‘Brow Arch Expert’ employer offered me a position on the West Coast and since I had lived there for many years, I chose to accept that position. I got my license in yet another state (this made three states at this point) but I didn’t remain there. When I moved to the Midwest I got my forth esthetics license and I got licensed as an esthetics instructor. Here I would ultimately work for two companies, one as a ‘Brow Arch Expert’ and the other as ‘Esthetics Instructor’. As an instructor, I was able to pass along the wonderful training I had received to students who were learning everything about the esthetics industry. I was required to provide training to assist students in passing their state esthetics license exam. Also there is what I will call the art of brow design, which has been my specialty for many years. Since I worked for two different brow and skincare companies, they each had their unique process for waxing and shaping brows. I’m going to offer to you that one wasn’t necessarily better than the other. As with any artist, one finds their preference for creative expression. I’m going to share with you my process for brow shaping and my tips.
Some “tricks” I use when filling in brows: I take into consideration the width of the eyes and nose, etc. Remember, the key is symmetry and balance. To assist in balancing facial features, I look for subtle ways to do this with color and application. My eyes are set close together, for example. So, it’s important that my brows be lighter at the inner corners. I ‘slant’ my brows outward, slightly, to give the appearance of width. Using harsh, darker colors or a “block/square” corner at the inside portion of the brows isn’t attractive on most women, anyway. I use darker shades on the outer corners of my brow to give the appearance of width as my face is narrow. Because my eyes are smallish, and my skin is that of a 50-something year old woman, I give a bit more height at the upper outer corners, too. This provides a ‘lift’.
A few other things I’d like to mention. Brow color. Very, very few caucasian women can wear a true black brow. (The exception is a very dark-skinned African American woman, for example.) In fact, I never use black when filling in the brow or tinting. (I can share with you now that I made that mistake once on a client who was the mother of the groom getting her brows waxed and tinted for her son’s wedding. Her brows were just too dark! Fortunately, she had 48 hours before the wedding and that allowed the tint to fade a tad. Whew. Lesson learned!)
Tinting. This is a service I have provided to my clients as a way to enhance their brows. I use a vegetable-based dye that goes onto the brow for about 5 minutes. It provides the illusion of fullness and it helps color to last. When brows are tinted, you may not need to use powder or pencils to fill them in at all. Tinting varies, but should last around 2-4 weeks.
Some women I know have chosen to get their brows microbladed. Microblading is a tattooing technique in which a small handheld tool uses tiny needles to add semi-permanent pigment to the skin. This is not something I’ve ever done or had done. As far as recommendations, I have clients who were very pleased with the outcome and others who were not. Do your own due diligence before making the decision to microblade your brows.
Permanent makeup or tattooed brows. This is something that I do not recommend. Sorry, to my industry friends who provide this service! I will share with you why. It’s the word “permanent” that scares me. And, I don’t think it looks good. Well, let’s say I don’t think it looks natural. But this is just my opinion. The color fades to a greenish-gray color. Which means you have to have it done again. What if you don’t like the shape of your now permanent brow? What happens when your skin sags or you get that area lifted? Your permanent brow makeup follows. Yes, there is tattoo removal. It hurts. So I’ve been told.
I hope I’ve been of some help to you with this brow mapping and brow shaping guide. I appreciate your following me and reading my blogs. You can find me on Instagram @TwoMargaretsBeauty and on Facebook at Two Margarets Beauty. Please follow me there and stay tuned for more exciting stuff!